How to Incorporate the Eggs. There are several different ways to put the “egg” into “eggnog.” For a few years I used this method:
- whisk egg yolks with some sugar until pale and foamy
- whisk egg whites with some sugar until soft peaks form
- fold the two egg foams together and stir into milk and cream
- add rum and nutmeg
The problem with this method, first of all, is that if it sits for even five minutes, the eggy foams separate from the milk and cream. I wouldn’t mind a bit of head on the nog, but the foams make up about 90% of the volume. Even during the brief moments in which all the ingredients are properly incorporated, the light and airy texture of the nog doesn’t seem appropriately robust and nourishing.
Out of sheer curiosity I tried cooking out a mixture of milk, cream, and yolks, à la crème anglaise. It was a bit thick, even once thinned with rum, but before repeating the process with a lower yolk content I decided that the cooked-egg taste is also inappropriate to the ideal nog.
I’ve finally settled on just adding whole eggs with the milk and cream, and blitzing thoroughly with a stick blender. The white make a nice little foam on top. Sometimes it will separate a bit if it sits in the fridge, but you can just blend it again before serving.
Rum Content. The recipe below uses one part rum for three parts dairy. To some drinkers it will seem out of balance, but to me nog can pull off wonky booziness that would be completely inappropriate in most drinks. Egg nog should warm you up.
Aging. Another important piece of information I came across was that properly boozed nog can be made well, well before consumption, and aged in the fridge. Michael Ruhlman has successfully aged eggnog for two years, if you can believe it. I’ve been making mine about one month in advance. The drink mellows and blends somewhat, but doesn’t develop any of the funky flavours of true, long-aged nog. It makes preparation for parties easier.
If you intend on aging your nog I’d recommend doubling the quantity of rum in the recipe below.
Foam. Very much a matter of personal taste, but I usually like a bit of eggy foam on top of my nog. I like the flavour of the egg whites, and it creates textural contrast.
If you want lots of foam, you could separate the yolks and whites. Use only the yolks in the recipe below, then right before serving whisk the whites with a pinch of sugar. In terms of how stiff the whites should be whisked, I think they should be even softer than the classical “soft-peak” stage. Once they reach soft peaks, the foam doesn’t flow over the surface of the liquid, and when drinking the nog it’s difficult to incorporate both foam and drink into each sip.
Nutmeg. I used to incorporate the nutmeg at the blending stage, but I found that it always sank to the bottom. Grating over the drink just before consumption ensures that you get the full aroma of the spice as it happily floats on the surface. Just my preference.
Eggnog
Ingredients
- 12 oz whole eggs (6 large eggs)
- 8 oz granulated sugar
- 1 very small pinch kosher salt
- 24 fl oz whole milk
- 8 fl oz heavy cream
- 8 fl oz golden or spiced rum, I use Sailor Jerry
- nutmeg to taste
Procedure
- Combine all ingredients and blend with an immersion blender.
- Can be stored in the fridge for a week before serving.
- To serve, blend thoroughly to develop of bit of foam. Ladle into mugs and grate nutmeg on top to taste.
I wonder how big a batch Michael Ruhlman made that he managed to allow to age for two years. I am quite sure you could put some in my fridge in the bottom at the back and it would go untouched for at least two years.
So is the nogger Lisa or yourself or both?
Hi, Allan,
I ran across a recipe and instructions for egg nog in a book I've been reading. Basically the instructions are as follows:
Set aside a large bowl in a larger bowl of ice water.
Wisk egg yolk (6) and 1/2 cup of sugar until thick.
In pan over med low heat bring 3 cups whole milk,vanilla bean and pinch of salt to a simmer. Remove from heat and whisk 1 cup of milk mixture into yolks. the slowly pour milk yolk mixture into remaining milk mixture. Place pan over medium heat stirring constantly until 160 degrees.(Thick enough to coat back of wooden spoon. Strain though fine seive into bowl in ice bath. Let cool 20 muinutes. Then refridgerate for an hour.
Add 1/2 cup brandy and 1 cup of cream to egg nog mixture. Beat egg whites with 1/2 cup sugar to stiff peak stage. Fold whites into eggnog until blended. Chill in fridge for several hours or overnite.
Is this similar to your cooked egg technique that you didn't care for ?
That's exactly the technique, just like making a custard.
You should put a warning not to sample extensively as they follow this recipe – i got lit up making this last night :)
I ended up cutting the ratio to 4:3:2:2:1 to suit my taste. Do you know if the reduced alcohol content will impact how long this can safely be aged for? IE is there a threshold that says “safe/not safe”, or does the % ABV just affect the how long you can potentially age this nog for?
It’s boozy, all right…
I don’t have a clear idea of what the threshold alcohol content is for safe aging. Maybe you could age this very stiff version, then dilute it with a bit of cream before consumption to make it more palatable?
That would’ve been a better idea. Or whisked in some mixture of egg whites and cream to lighten it up too. The only issue i have with that is i fought hard to get the specific mouthfeel/consistency i was looking for. Adding more liquid pre-imbibe would affect that significantly.
I’ll let you know if/when it spoils :)
I used to make it regularly in those drinking years, but for the life of me, I cannot make a nog that doesn’t pack a huge wallop. I have tried, but just cannot. I make it in my Thermomix and it is perfectly delish. I haven’t the last few years as there is so much left over – and it does last a year or two without a problem in the fridge. Even stronger than I remembered it the next year!
:)
V